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Grasses are one of the dominant plants native to the Colorado plains. Native and adapted grasses have become a valued addition to the landscape within Solterra. The common areas and the rock beds all have grasses, both native and Ornamental. The Ornamental grasses add important elements to gardens that no other group of plants can – texture, color and movement. When summer flowers are gone, the grasses continue giving interest even on a winter’s day.
But there can be a few drawbacks to planting and maintaining many of the more popular varieties. Many of the larger clump grasses such as Pampas and Maiden Grass can quickly overtake an area in just a few growing seasons. California considers Pampas grass as invasive and has made efforts to remove mature stands of the grass. In Solterra, we have an issue with the Dwarf Fountain Grasses that were planted 12 years ago, as their seeds have sprouted in the turf grass. The Karl Foerster Feather Reed grass seed heads are sterile, meaning they can’t germinate as weeds when blown throughout flowerbeds.
Ornamental grasses should be cut back before new growth appears so it gives space for the new shoots. Since ornamental grasses still look neat into winter and can provide interest with the seed heads, most growers wait until late winter or early spring to cut the grass to the ground. The photo on the left shows that the grasses were not cut back in the winter and the new growth is trying to appear.
Our Landscaper, Schultz Industries, will be cutting back the grasses in the common areas at the end of February or the beginning of March, depending on the weather. When you notice that the Solterra grasses
have been cut back, that is a good time for you to shear the grasses back before new growth appears. Use sterilized pruning shears or a hedge trimmer to cut the previous season’s growth to 2 to 6 inches above the soil line. For small or young plants, a good pair of shears and a bungee cord around the plant will easily do the trick. Hedge trimmers also work great for cutting back grasses. Cordless trimmers are a great choice for mobility and ease!
Ornamental grass clumps grow from the inside out. That means new growth is always on the outside ring of the plant. After a few years, you may notice the middle area beginning to die off. When this happens, it is time to dig your plant up and replace it, or separate living divisions from dead tissue by hand and replant.
These are recommendations from the Solterra Landscape Committee for early Fall and Winter with assistance from area lawn and garden experts.
Maintaining a healthy landscape in Solterra can be challenging with our alkaline clay soil, drastic winter temperature changes, and harsh dry winds. Just look further up Green Mountain. The lack of vegetation you see there is a result of the same conditions that we have here in Solterra. The good news, however, is that with a little attention and preventive care you can have a lush, healthy landscape, and you don’t have to have a green thumb!
Fall is a time when we often think our landscape chores have come to an end, but in reality, fall is the most critical time of the year for your landscaping. This is when all plants strengthen their root systems and make preparations for the upcoming year. Taking the following steps will not only promote the healthy landscaping you desire, but they will make your job much easier and likely cheaper next spring and summer.
Hold off on any needed pruning of trees and shrubs until late winter or early spring. Avoid pruning flowering trees and shrubs until after their bloom period. Regardless of when you prune, don’t remove more than 1/3 of woody shrubs such as Burning Bush, Dogwoods, etc. at a time. Perennials such as Yarrow, Cranesbills, etc. may be cut to the ground in the fall or early spring.
Cut ornamental grasses back in late February through March before new growth appears. Ideally, it’s best to cut them as low as three to six inches from the ground.
Treat trees and shrubs now with a systemic pesticide and fertilizer such as Bayer’s Tree and Shrub Dual Action or other similar product. Plants absorb the pesticide into their root system, branches, and foliage, thus preventing damaging insects such as aphids, spider mites, etc., from invading during the spring and summer. Such treatment is especially crucial to aspens which tend to attract insects at our altitude.
Fertilizer stakes are an easy-to-apply fall/winter fertilizer for all trees.
Wrap young tree trunks up to the first or second set of branches with winter wrap before it freezes. Winter sun and winds tend to blister and splinter tree bark, causing serious damage to young trees especially. More mature trees that have developed a rough bark do not need to be wrapped.
Mulch trees and shrubs around their base with a shredded western cedar, but keep it six inches away from the trunk itself.
Water trees and shrubs one time each month November through March; twice monthly if we have a dry winter. The best method is to use a root feeder or slow soak with a regular hose for about an hour. Water when temperatures are in the 40’s or above and preferably in the afternoon. If a hard freeze is expected, try to water a day or two before the freeze arrives.
Hose down evergreens in addition to a good monthly root soaking. Evergreens absorb the water into their needles which helps prevent burning and dead branches.
Be a good neighbor! If there are trees in the common area adjoining your property, run a hose out to these trees once or twice a month during the winter to give them a good soaking. After all, these trees add beauty, privacy, and value to your home as well.
Apply a winterizer to your lawn in late October. *Colorado’s Choice Winterizer and Water Saver is an organic and reasonably priced product that can be found at local garden centers, but there are other quality products as well that are safe for the environment.
Apply a pre-emergent such as High-Yield Turf & Ornamental Weed and Grass Stopper (or other similar product) in February to fend off broadleaf weeds and invasive grasses in the spring.
Treat for grubs, Japanese Beetles, ants, fleas, and other insects now with a product such as Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer. Organic treatments are always best, but if you have had a serious infestation, you may need something stronger.
Top dress your lawn with a light covering of an organic product such as *Colorado’s Choice BOSS (bio organic soil supplement) or an equal combination of BOSS and cow compost. Most lawns in Solterra were not given a layer of top dressing before installation. Adding an annual or bi-annual light covering of a quality top dressing will make an amazing difference in your lawn all year long.
Continue mowing until grass is dormant. The last cut should be 2 – 2.5 inches to prevent matting.
Water your lawn one time per month in the winter; twice if we have a dry winter. Choose a day when the temperatures are at least 40 degrees (never water when the ground is frozen) and preferably in the afternoon.
Don’t depend on snow to moisturize your lawn. It takes at least four inches of snow to supply moisture to your lawn; anything less than that evaporates and does not penetrate the roots. This is why our wet spring snowfalls are so valuable!
Reseed in the fall and February if you have bare spots in your yard or areas where the grass is sparse. Be sure to cover the seedlings with a light coating of BOSS or other top dressing.
Pansies are in area nurseries early in the fall and will offer color fall, winter, and spring. These hardy plants, even in containers, can withstand temperatures to -25 degrees and rebound after heavy snowfalls. Don’t forget to water them at least once weekly.
Plant bulbs such as daffodils, tulips, iris, and other spring bulb flowers after the ground is cold, preferably late October and November. Use bone meal or a bulb plant food and follow planting instructions according to packaging.
*Colorado’s Choice products are made in Colorado and are specifically designed for Colorado growing conditions. They are not generally found in box stores, but rather at area nurseries.
These are recommendations from the Solterra Landscape Committee for early spring, March to May. They are for normal spring weather and temperatures.
Aside from our recent cold spells and snowfalls, spring is truly just around the corner, which means it’s time to take advantage of any nice warm days to get your yard and landscaping ready to enjoy this summer. We hope the following tips will be helpful.
If you have not yet cut your ornamental grasses back, now is the time. You’ll want to do this before new shoots begin to pop up, or you’ll be cutting down new foliage. A simple solution to keep grass clippings from flying everywhere, wrap the plant with a heavy-duty tape just above the cut line (about 8 “ – 12” from the ground), and then simply lift it off and dispose of it.
For a lawn that will be the envy of your neighborhood, apply *Colorado’s Choice Green-Up (or similar all natural product) in April or the first part of May. Most green-up products contain beads of iron. Be sure to sweep these off of any cement or stone surfaces, as they can leave long-lasting stains.
Herbaceous perennials such as Russian Sage, spirea, yarrow, lupine, and mums, should be cut back to the ground now. Woody shrubs and trees such as lilacs, buckthorn, burning bush, and dogwoods, should be pruned back no more than 1/3. A good rule of thumb to remember, (1) if a shrub or tree blooms in the spring, prune after it blooms; (2) if it blooms in the summer or fall, prune in the spring.
Remove winter wrap from trees. Check for any infestations or disease.
Allow foliage from all bulbs, such as daffodils and tulips, to die back or turn yellow before cutting. The period right after they bloom is when these plants produce food and energy for next year’s blooms.
Wait until after Mother’s Day, or even Memorial Day to be extra safe, to plant tender vegetables, herbs, and flowers.
Before any new plantings, amend the soil with an all-natural product such as peat moss, *Colorado’s Choice BOSS, or other organic soil supplement. This one step can make a huge difference throughout the entire blooming season.
Check the irrigation system for proper operation and times. Make sure your lawn, trees, and other plants are getting adequate water. Be sure you are not over-watering. This not only wastes precious water and your dollars, but it can kill many plants and trees.
Make sure any sump pump drainage, downspouts, or other sources of water, are not creating run-off onto your neighbor’s yard or the common areas.
Check with your local nurseries for any other gardening tips or specific questions you might have. They are your best resource for how to grow and maintain a healthy landscape in our unique Solterra growing conditions.
There are a multitude of informational fact sheets and other publications available to Jefferson County gardeners. Follow the simple links below and explore a bit. Find out what information you might need.
CSU Extension Online Resources – Example topics include Online Fact Sheets and Publications, which will provide a listing of informational areas like Yard and Garden, Insects, Water, Plant Select, Plant Talk, and many others.
The Jefferson County CSU Extension Colorado Master Gardeners Facebook page.
PlantTalk has information on the following topics:
These blogs provide more information about horticulture and gardening, plus many other areas related.
These are specifically for the residents at Solterra and not the generic ones that you see in the papers, magazines or the garden centers. Schultz Industries kindly gave us these tips for Solterra. They are for normal summer weather and temperatures.
The best part of the day to water your lawn is while it is cool (evening and early morning). There will be a lot less moisture lost to evaporation and the grass will be more resistant to fungal disease. Turf grass responds best when watered between the hours of 7 pm and 7 am. The goal is to give the lawn the lowest amount of water possible, while still keeping it green. During the cooler late spring and late summer/early fall, 2 nights a week should be enough irrigation. During normal 85-90 degree summer weeks, three nights a week usually keeps the grass green. The best thing you can do for an irrigation system is to make sure that all the heads are adjusted correctly, with correct nozzles and no leaks.
Pop up sprinkler heads should run for a max total of 5-8 minutes per start time or you will see a ton of runoff. The best way to irrigate the clay soils in Solterra is to set up a “cycle & soak” schedule. One start time would be at 8pm and run the sprinklers for 5-8 minutes per zone for that start time. Then set another start time 4-6 hours later and let the zones run for another 5-8 minutes each. The break in between the start times allows the irrigation water to soak into the clay soil and saves run off.
Note: For flat areas next to sidewalks and streets, the best way to figure out how long to water is to watch the zones run and time the zone until run off (not the overspray) just starts to occur. For hill sides or sloping areas, it will take a while for the water to be visible as runoff, so it is best to start with a lower time, and if the grass looks stressed after several weeks of watering, increase the time.
Drip irrigation should always be used for plant material in landscape beds. Most drip irrigation only needs to run for 30-45 minutes a week for established plant material. Split the 45 minutes up into three watering days with 15 minutes per day. New plantings may require more water. The best way to determine if you are under watering is to just watch the plants. If they look stressed add a few minutes per day.
Rotor spray heads should be running at a minimum of 10-15 minutes per start time. They need enough run time to actually rotate enough times to give adequate coverage. The total run time for most rotor heads in a night is usually between 20-30 minutes. Rotors also benefit from a cycle soak set up. Run 2 start times per night at 10- 15 minutes each.
For all irrigation control systems, make sure the rain sensor is working and is enabled so you do not water when it is raining. You should also not water during the times of high winds.
Also note, if you have a landscape company take care of your property, you should make sure they are setting up your system according to the above rules.
Every homeowner should monitor the area around their property to ensure that there is no excessive runoff from the irrigation system. If the soil is saturated or walks are flooded after the irrigation cycle runs, there is excessive runoff and the run times should be decreased.
Be aware that if there is excessive runoff, it is a violation of the Solterra Declaration of Covenants, Conditions and Restrictions, Section 4.6p:
All landscape irrigation by an Owner shall be limited in amount and frequency to that which is reasonably necessary and appropriate, and shall not be allowed to result in flooding, saturation or other adverse effects of, on or to other property.
Below is a list of heavily researched and tested plants by the Solterra Landscape Committee that have done well within Solterra's soil conditions and climate.
Note: For any design changes within your landscape, please seek further information and guidance posted on the Home Improvements page.
These are the links to the labels and Safety Data Sheets (SDS) for all products that Schultz is planning to use within the turf grass areas and the rock beds at Solterra.
Used for broadleaf weed control in turf grass areas. It treats difficult weeds like clover.
SpeedZone Label
SpeedZone SDS
Used as a post emergent selective herbicide used to control broadleaf weeds in turf grass areas. Schultz switches to a 2,4-D and Dicamba blend later in the summer when the dandelions have been controlled, and we need to control thistle and clover. This product is only used in spot spraying.
Trimec 1000 Label
Trimec 1000 SDS
This is a fertilizer blend containing Pendimethalin. Pendimethalin is a pre-emergent herbicide used to help suppress invasive grassy weeds like "crabgrass." Please keep children and pets out of flagged areas
22-0-6 Pro Pendi .75 Label
22-0-6 Pro Pendi .75 SDS
This is a post emergent selective herbicide used to control broadleaf weeds in turf and native grass areas. Schultz uses this product by itself because of its low volatility and lessened environmental impact. This product is used May to July. This product is generally used once in a broadcast application and then followed up with spot applications.
DEFY Amine 4 Label
DEFY Amine 4 SDS
This is a post emergent selective herbicide used to control invasive grassy weeds like "crabgrass." This product is used once per season in a spot treatment.
Quinclorac 75 DF SP Label
Quinclorac 75 DF MSDS
This is a glyphosate product. This is used in hardscape and bed areas to control all undesired plant material. It is used only in spot spraying, but used regularly throughout the season.
Tomahawk 4 Label
Tomahawk 4 SDS
These are recommendations from the Schultz Industries for care of the turf grass lawns with assistance from area lawn and garden experts.
Fertilizing is best done 3-4 times a year with any of the commercially available lawn mixes. Use a weed and feed in the late spring and a winterizer blend in October. A normal fertilizer can be used either once in July or once in June and once in August. Scotts or Bayer both make great products for the homeowner market. Make sure to follow all label instructions, especially for the calibration settings on the spreader.
Pesticide labels must be followed. It against the law to ever apply any pesticide in a manner not specified on the label. It is also bad for your landscape and the health of the environment and your neighbors. Of all the aspects of landscape maintenance, pesticide application may be the one thing to leave to a trusted landscape maintenance company and not be done by homeowners themselves.
For weed control in landscaped beds or sidewalk/driveway cracks you want to use a product that contains glyphosate (Round Up). Take extra precaution when using this chemical, as it has the ability to kill any plant material that it touches. Do not use Round Up or similar product in turf, as it will kill the turf. Several other non-selective herbicides are available for use in landscape plantings. These include: Diquat (Reward™), pelargonic acid (Scythe™), glufosinate (Finale™ and others), and many “natural products” such as vinegar and botanical oils.
Turf weeds are best controlled by growing a really healthy lawn. A lawn that is adequately watered without being overwatered as well as fertilized properly will naturally fend off most broadleaf weeds. If broadleaf control is needed look for a product the contains 2,4-D. Once again Scotts and Bayer both make products designed for the homeowner that work well. When it comes to spraying any chemical in the turf, I always say less is more. Do one application on the lower end of the recommended rate and wait a few days to see how well it works, and then come back with a second application if needed. Grassy weeds, like crabgrass, are best controlled by hand, removing them and then seeding the areas where they were.
We never mow grass below 3", anything lower than that and you risk stressing the turf. When the summer gets hotter you can even raise the mowing deck up to 3.5”-4.0" Continue mowing the grass until it is dormant. The last cut should be 2-2.5 inches to prevent matting in the winter.
The linked report provided by Colorado State University offers details about the invasive Japanese Beetles. Please familiarize yourself about the invasive insect in doing your part to keep them at bay from the community as a whole.
Fact Sheet: Japanese Beetle